After a army operative together during Copenhagen’s much-celebrated Noma, Bubbledogs’ married owners, Sandia Chang and James Knappett, a chef, staid in London and collaborated on a elementary concept: an artless Champagne bar with seating for 35 that serves usually single-estate pours and a purchase of high-end prohibited dogs. Also on a menu are qualification beers and icy, antique cocktails, like a Snowy, a martini done with Death Door Gin and laced with Compass Box Peat Monster Scotch and a mist of absinthe, served in a cold china Champagne coupe.
The dining area is as ample as a sea container, though most some-more handsome. A copper-clad bar stands out in a room with reclaimed ash floors and unprotected brick. Also on a premises is Kitchen Table, run by a owners. Here, Mr. Knappett whips adult a 10- to 15-course tasting menu of tiny plates like crispy duck skin with rosemary mascarpone and bacon jam. But a categorical front room with a prohibited dogs and heart-choking sides is distant some-more lively.
My American dining messenger and we systematic a Sloppy Joe Dog. It was sinfully delicious: an ethereal bun hold a prolonged and gaunt pig prohibited dog drowned in cumin-perfumed chili, wilted onions and pointy Cheddar. To see a side like American-style tater tots on a London menu is like saying a mirage: a English have their version, though they are dry and gluey, and shouldn’t unequivocally be placed in a same class. The ones during Bubbledogs were excellent.
We systematic flutes of Demarne-Frison Goustan Brut, a Champagne with a baritone fruitiness of guava and a heated vegetable compactness of dejected seashells. The chill and liveliness of a Champagne were a ideal foil to a greasy dish — which, it turns out, is accurately a idea.
“You don’t need excessively imagination food to move out a best of a good wine,” Ms. Chang said. “In fact, infrequently we trust a easier and reduction affected, a better.”
Bubbledogs, 70 Charlotte Street, London; (44) 20-7637-7770; bubbledogs.co.uk. A dish for two, with eyeglasses of Champagne, about £75, or $111 during $1.48 to a pound.